Glossary

Glossary of Jewelry Terms

珠寶術語表

1 2 9 A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P Q R S T U V W X Y Z

1

10k :A gold alloy that includes 41.7% pure gold and 58.3% alloy

一種金合金，包括 41.7% 純金和 58.3% 合金

14k:A gold alloy that includes 58.5% pure gold and 41.5% alloy

一種金合金，包括 58.5% 純金和 41.5% 合金

18k:A gold alloy that includes 75% pure gold and 25% alloy

一種金合金，包括 75% 純金和 25% 合金

2

24k:A gold or gold alloy that is over 99.95% pure gold

純度超過 99.95% 的黃金

9

9k :A gold alloy that includes 37.5% pure gold and 62.5% alloy

A

A Jour:An open setting that leaves the pavilion facets open to the light

一個開放的環境，讓亭子的面向光線開放

Abalone:A deposit made from inside a seashell

由貝殼內部製成的沉積物

Abraded Culet:A chipped or scratched culet

碎裂或刮傷的尖底

Abra sion:A bruise or scratch on the surface of a stone

石頭表面的瘀傷或划痕

Accent:A jewelry piece or design element that is meant to draw attention to a different focal point

旨在將注意力吸引到不同焦點的珠寶作品或設計元素

Agate:A variety of chalcedony found in all colors

各種顏色的玉髓

AGS:American Gem Society: a professional organization formed in 1934 by several independent jewelers and the founder of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

美國寶石協會：由幾位獨立珠寶商和美國寶石學院 (GIA) 創始人於 1934 年成立的專業組織

Aigrette:A hair ornament consisting of a feather plume or spray of glitter, often accentuated by either a jewel or buckle

由羽毛或閃光噴霧組成的髮飾，通常由珠寶或帶扣突出

Alexandrite:A variation of Chrysoberyl, with the unique ability of changing color in natural or artificial light

金綠寶石的一種變體，具有在自然光或人造光下改變顏色的獨特能力

Alloy:A combination of metals fused together

融合在一起的金屬組合

Aluminum:A silver/white metal that is lightweight and malleable

Amazonite:An opaque form of feldspar

Amber:The fossilized resin of prehistoric pine trees, which ranges in color from golden to orange-red

American Gem Trade Association:An organization tasked with maintaining ethical standards within the gemstone industry

Amethyst:A clear purple, blue, or violet variety of crystallized quartz

Amulet:A pendant or charm that is worn for its protective or magical powers

Anneal:The process of hardening glass pottery or metal, by alternately heating

and pounding it

Anniversary Band:A ring--often an eternity band--which is given to commemorate an anniversary

Anodized:A process in which a metal object is placed in an acid bath and an electrical current is passed through the tank

Antique:Any object which was created at least 100 years ago

Antiquing:The process of darkening the recessed areas of gold or silver jewelry, in order to enhance the visibility of the engraving, thus giving the piece an aged, or

Antwerp:Perhaps the most noteworthy and versatile diamond-cutting center in the world

Appraisal:A monetary evaluation, usually performed for insurance purposes by a certified gemologist

Aquamarine:A transparent blue, blue-green, or green variety of Beryl, often considered a semi-precious gemstone and used in jewelry

Arabesque:Flowing scroll work epitomized by curlicues in low relief

Art Deco:A style characterized by angular geometric shapes, zigzags, bold colors, molded or faceted Czech glass beads, plastics (such as celluloid or Bakelite) and chrome

Art Nouveau:Art Nouveau is known for its flowing style with sinuous curves and naturalistic motifs.

Articulated:Jewelry constructed with hinges that allow for flexibility, or other moving parts

Arts and Crafts:A design movement that began in the late 1800s as a rebellion against the mass-produced, machine made designs of questionable aesthetic value, common in the late Victorian era

Assay:The process of establishing the purity standards for gold, silver, and other alloys

Asscher Cut:An octagonal diamond cut

Aurora Borealis:The Latin term for Northern Lights

B

Baguette:A narrow, rectangular-cut stone

Baguette Cut:A rectangular diamond cut with four corners that create a rectangle or four-sided polygon.

Bail:The connector at the top of a pendant, which allows the pendant to hang from a chain or jump ring

Bakelite:A synthetic material, patented in 1909, that was used in jewelry extensively during the U.S. Great Depression of the 1930s

Bandeau:A narrow band, worn low, which encircles the forehead as a head ornament

Bangle:A traditionally rigid, non-flexible bracelet

Baroque:A general term for bold, ornate, heavy looking ornamentation

Basse-taille:A technique of applying glass enamel to a metal surface

Bearding:Small, feather-like cracks along the girdle of a diamond

Belle Epoque:Another term for the Edwardian period

Berlin Iron:Cast iron jewelry, worked into delicate openwork patterns, and made in Berlin during the first half of the nineteenth century

Beryl:A mineral consisting of a silicate of beryllium and aluminum of great hardness that occurs in colorless hexagonal prisms when pure and in various colors such as: green, blue, yellow, or pink, when not pure

Bezel:A setting for a stone, that has a collar instead of prongs, in order to secure the stone

Bijouterie:The art of working in gold and enamel

Birthstone:A gemstone that is symbolically associated with the month of one's birth

Biwa Pearl:A freshwater, cultured pearl from Japan

Black Antique:A jewelry piece that has had a long-lasting black paint applied to it

Black Star of Queensland:A 733 carat black sapphire, previously thought to be the world's largest gem quality star sapphire

Blemish:A flaw, spot, or scratch on the surface of a gemstone

Bling:A general term for flashy jewelry, often worn as an indication of affluence

Blister Pearl:An irregularly shaped and hollow pearl, cut from the shell of an oyster

Blue Topaz:A topaz that is light brown or colorless when mined, which turns a vivid blue when exposed to heat

Bog Oak:Wood that was preserved over thousands of years in the bogs of Ireland, which was hard enough to be carved and worn as jewelry

Bolt ring:A finding that is entirely or partially hollow, drawn back on an internal spring, which connects rings

Book Chain:A Victorian style of chain that is made in solid gold or sterling silver, in which each link is a rectangular folded piece of metal resembling a book

Borax:A flux used in soldering

Box Setting:A stone, enclosed in a box-shaped setting with metal edges that are pressed down to hold the stone in place

Bracelet:An ornamental band or chain worn around the wrist

Braided:A jewelry design element in which multiple strands of an often precious metal appear to be woven together

Brass:An alloy made up of roughly half copper and half zinc, which has a nice yellow color

Brilliance:The intensity and amount of light reflecting from inside a diamond or gemstone

Brilliant cut:Brilliant cut is the standard cut style for diamonds and consists of a total of 58 facets: 1 table, 8 bezel facets, 8 star facets, 16 upper-girdle facets on the crown, 8 pavilion facets, 16 lower-girdle facets and usually a culet on the pavilion or base

Briolette:A pear-shaped, faceted stone

Bronze:A very dense, heavy alloy of 60% Copper and 40% Tin

Brooch:Either a large pin, or an ornamental piece of jewelry with a pin and clasp to be attached to clothing

Brushed Finish:A texturing technique used on metals, where a series of tiny parallel lines are scratched onto the surface with a wire brush of polishing tool

Buff top cabochon:A style of stone cutting, where the top of the gemstone is a dome (en cabochon) and the pavilion is faceted

Bulla:Two concave plates that form a hollow receptacle

C

C catch:The most common means of securing a brooch before safety catches were invented

Cable:A wire, often made of a precious or semi-precious metal, used in jewelry making

Cabochon:Dome-shaped stone, without facets

CAD:An acronym for computer aided design

Calibre Cut:Small stones that are faceted and cut into squares, rectangles, or oblongs, and set close together

Caliper:An instrument for determining the thickness or diameter of a gemstone

Cameo:A layered stone, frequently made from banded agate or sea shell, that has been carved with either a woman's profile (most common), a man's profile, a natural scene, or themes involving the Greek or Roman Gods and Goddesses

Cameo Habille:Most often, a depiction of a female who is carved wearing a diamond pendant, earrings, or a crown

Canary Diamond:A vibrant yellow variation of Diamond

Cannetille:A firework decoration, which uses coiled and twisted gold wire to achieve a delicate, scrolling effect

Carat:A unit of weight for diamonds and other gemstones

Carbide:A compound of Carbon which has a more electropositive element

Carbon-Fiber:A strong, lightweight, synthetic fiber made especially by carbonizing acrylic fiber at high temperatures

Carbuncle:A garnet cut en cabochon

Carmen Lucia Ruby:A 23.10 carat Ruby, notably the largest faceted Ruby in the National Gem Collection

Carnelian:A translucent red or orange variety of chalcedony, sometimes banded in a red and orange design, similar to an agate

Cartouche:A swirling or scroll-like decoration that is most often a symmetrical design and is usually engraved as an embellishment

Casting:A method of shaping metal by melting and then pouring into a hollow mold

Catalin:A trade name for an early phenol plastic

Cathedral Setting:An elegant setting whose intention is to display the center stone as a focal point

Celluloid:A very thin, highly flammable plastic containing camphor

Celtic:Designs that are derived from the ancient Irish, Gaelic, British, Scottish, and Welsh symbols

Center Stone:A precious or semi-precious gemstone placed within an engagement ring's head, as the focal point

Chalcedony:A greyish-blue quartz

Champleve:An enameling technique in which areas of metal are cut, etched, or routed, before being filled with enamel or molten glass

Channel:A type of mounting in which gemstones are set into a channel, between two metal rails

Channel Setting:A stone setting method that fits stones of uniform size into a channel to form a continuous strip

Charm:A jewelry pendant or trinket, often worn on a necklace or bracelet to ward off evil or ensure good fortune

Chasing:A method of decorating the front or outside of metal objects by making indentations using shaped punches and a chasing hammer

Chatelaine:A decorative belt hook or clasp, which is pinned at a women's waist and has several chains suspended from it

Chaton Cut:A round crystal jewelry stone shape with 12 facets on the pointed back

Choker:A short necklace, generally less than 14

Chrome:A hard, brittle, grayish-white metal that is difficult to fuse and resistant to corrosion

Chrysoberyl:A semi-precious stone of a transparent golden-yellow, green-yellow or brown hue

Cire-perdue:See 'Casting'

Citrine:A variation of quartz, citrine can take on many colors, ranging from: light yellow to a brilliant orange, which may sometimes be confused with fine imperial topaz

Clarity:A term used to measure the degree to which a gemstone is free from flaws

Classic:A jewelry piece that remains popular beyond the era of its creation

Cloisonne:A technique of enameling, whereby the enamel colored glass powder is placed into pockets or cells of metal, before being baked and cooled to solidify

Cloud:A group of tiny white inclusions in a diamond

Cluster:A term for jewelry pieces that have many precious or semi-precious gemstones, all set in close proximity to each other

Collet:A round band of metal encircling a gemstone to hold it in place

Collier:A wide necklace, which encircles the neck from throat to chin

Color:A term used to measure the saturation of a diamond

Color Diamond:A diamond that has a hue other than white

Comfort Fit:A ring design, in which the edges of the shank are rounded for maximum comfort

Contemporary:A jewelry design that is relevant, based on the current trends

Contrasting Finish:A jewelry finish in which different parts of the piece have different finishes

Copper:A common, reddish-brown, metallic element

Coral:A form of Calcium Carbonate, secreted in long chains by coral polyps who live in colonies under the ocean

Corundum:A very hard mineral that consists of Aluminum Oxide occurring in massive and crystalline forms and often containing trace amounts of Iron, Titanium, Vanadium and Chromium

Creole earrings:A hoop earring, broader at the bottom than at the top, popular in the 1850s

Crest:An identifying emblem, often worn during the Medieval and Renaissance eras

Criss-Cross:A ring which has multiple bands that are not set parallel and intersect

Cross:A structure consisting of an upright beam attached to a shorter, perpendicular beam

Cross facet:Small triangular facets, above and below the girdle of a brilliant cut stone

Crown:The facets or portions of a gemstone, located above the girdle

Crystal:A body that is formed by the solidification of a chemical element, a compound, or a mixture, and has a regularly repeating internal arrangement of its atoms and often external plane faces

Cubic Zirconium:A man made gemstone that appears very much like diamond, yet does not have the same intrinsic properties, such as hardness

Cuff Link:An ornamental jewelry piece which contains two, often decorated, pieces of precious or semi-precious metal connected by a bar which passes through a buttonhole

Culet:The pointed bottom of the pavilion, which is sometimes polished with a tiny facet and sometimes pointed with no facet

Cullinan Diamond:A 3,106.75 carat diamond, discovered in South Africa in 1905

Cultured pearl:A pearl created by a mussel farmer or oyster farmer, under controlled conditions

Cushion Cut:A square or rectangular stone that has rounded corners

Custom:A jewelry design that is unique to the piece

Custom Cut Gemstone:A gemstone that has been cut by a professional lapidary

Cut:A term which refers to the geometric proportions that dictate the reflection and refraction of light within a stone

Cut Steel:Steel studs that have been machine stamped, cut with facets, and highly polished

D

Dainty:A piece marked by delicate or diminutive beauty, form, or grace

Damascene:A type of jewelry that, today, most often comes from Spain

Damascus steel:A steel ornamented with wavy, sometimes zebra-like patterns

Danglers:An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe and is intentionally flexible so as to dangle to and fro

Demi-parure:A partial set of jewelry

Depose:The rights or patent granted for an exclusive jewelry design in France

Depth:The distance from a gemstone's table to its culet (top to bottom)

Depth percentage:The measurement of a gemstone's depth (top to bottom) in relation to its diameter

Diadems:A semi-circular band worn around the head, which is usually jeweled and three dimensional

Diamond:A mineral composed of carbon that crystallizes in the cubic or isometric crystal system and is therefore singly refractive

Diamond Cut:A name sometimes used in the colored-stone trade for brilliant cut

Dog Collar:A snug necklace made either of rows of pearls or beads, which is usually worn high up on the neck

Domed:A gemstone shape in which the top of the stone is rounded, resembling half of a sphere

Double Prong:A jewelry setting in which each prong contains another prong alongside it

Dresden Green Diamond:A 41 carat natural green diamond of unknown origin, which is thought to have been discovered in India

Drop:An earring style that includes a focal point which drops below the earlobe, often attached by a simple or adorned chain

Duette:A combination of two clips on a pin back

E

Earrings:An ornament for the ear, most commonly worn in the earlobe

East-West:A stone that is set with its elongated sides parallel to the band

Eco-friendly:A jewelry piece whose sourcing or creation was not harmful to the environment

Edwardian:A style that began during the final years of Victoria's reign and continued until shortly before World War I when the more geometric influences later to be called Art Deco began to make headway.

Electro-plating:The process of applying metal (most often gold) to adhere to the surface of another metal, using electrical current

Elegant:Of a high grade or quality

Emerald:A gemstone of the beryl family

Emerald Cut:A type of shape and cut, emphasizing long parallel step cuts with clipped corners to create an octagon shape

Empire earrings:The distinctive hoop shape of Roman earrings from roughly 1st century BC, with freshwater pearls or amethysts, set in sterling silver or gold

En Tremblant:A movable, trembling effect, generally achieved through the use of coiled springs of metal, mounted underneath the portion of the brooch that is intended to move

Enamel:A glass powder or paste that is applied to metal, then fired in an annealing oven to bake the glass onto the metal

Engagement:The period of time between a proposal and marriage

Engagement Ring:A ring given in betrothal

Engraving:The process of decorating metal by etching a design into its surface

Enhancer:A type of loop that attaches a pendant or charm to a chain, but has hinges that allow it to be opened and closed

Estate Jewelry:A jewelry piece, often worn for sentimental reasons, which is part of the estate of a deceased person

Etching:The removal of part of a metal surface, by acid, for a decorative effect

Eternity Band:A wedding ring design, which includes a precious metal set with a continuous line of identically cut gemstones

Etui:Small cylindrical case that hangs from a chatelaine

Euro-shank:A ring shank with a flat or squarish bottom

European Cut:The style of diamond cutting popular from approximately 1890 to the 1930s, typified by a round girdle, a smaller table in relation to the diameter of the stone, and a large culet

Extinction:Dark or black spots in colored stone

Eye-clean:A term used to describe gemstones containing flaws that cannot be seen without a 10x loupe

F

Facet:A plain, polished surface on a stone

Faience:Glazed porcelain or earthenware

Fancy Cut:Any style of diamond cutting other than the round brilliant

Fashion Ring:A ring worn for decorative, rather than symbolic, purposes

Faux:A French word meaning false, fake, imitation, or artificial

Feather:An internal flaw (inclusion) that has a feathery appearance

Fede ring:A ring with two hands clasped together, first

Ferronniere:A narrow band, with a center jewel, which encircles the forehead

Festoon:A design motif of a garland or string of flowers, leaves and ribbons

Fibula:An archaeological term for brooch

Filigree:Thin strands of wire that are intricately interlaced or bent into rosettes, spirals, scrolls, or vines

Findings:A general term for all types of construction components used in jewelry making, such as clasps, pins, hooks, tabs, etc.

Finish:A term used to describe the polish or texture applied to metal

Fire:Flashes of different spectrum colors seen in diamonds and other gemstones as the result of dispersion

Flat Band:A band that is squared on the edges and not domed on top

Flaw:A general term used to refer to internal or external characteristics of a gemstone (i.e.: inclusion, fracture, etc)

Flawless:A term used to describe a gemstone that lacks discernible internal or external blemishes when viewed by a gemologist using no less than 10x magnification

Fleur-de-lis:A stylized, three-petaled iris flower used as the armorial emblem of the Kings of France and then re-popularized by Napoleon

Floral:A general term for jewelry design elements which depict flowers, leaves, vines, or plant-like shapes

Florentine:A jewelry piece that is from, or takes strong inspiration from, Florence, Italy

Florentine Finish:A cross-hatched pattern, tooled into the surface of metal

荧光A luminescence that appears when certain diamonds are exposed to ultraviolet light

Flush Setting:A jewelry setting in which a stone is set within a metal hole and metal is applied above the girdle

Flux:A material used in soldering

Fob:A short chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch, often with an ornament or decorative seal attached to the end

Foil:The reflective coating added tp the back of a gemstone or rhinestones to increase brilliance and depth of color

Fracture:A general term for cracks, feathers or chips in a gemstone

French Cut:A square or rectangular, multifaceted stone cut

French Ivory:A plastic produced to simulate ivory

French Jet:A black glass, originally meant to simulate black ignite (fossilized coal), often called real jet

French wire:A curved wire, resembling a fish hook, which passes through the pierced earlobe and has a catch closure

Freshwater Pearls:An irregular pearl of various colors, produced by fresh water mollusks such as mussels and clams

Full Lead Crystal:The finest man-made crystal, with a high lead oxide content that serves to enhance its natural color spectrum

Full-cut Brilliant:A brilliant-cut diamond (or colored stone) with the usual total of 58 facets consisting of: 32 facets and a table above the girdle; and 24 facets and a culet below

G

Garnet:A family of stones having many varieties in color and their constituents

Gemologist:A gemstone specialist trained in gemstone identification, grading and appraising

Gemology:The science and study of gemstones

Gemstone Certificate:An official document, which is universally accepted to verify a stone's specifications and value

Gemstones:A general term which includes diamonds, sapphires, emeralds, chalcedony, agates, heliotropes, onyx, tourmaline, chrysolite, rubies, spinel, topaz, turquoise, zircon, and more.

Gerlots:Small, long pendant beads

GIA:Acronym for the Gemological Institute of America

Gilding:An object decorated with a thin layer of gold, gold leaf, or gold foil

Gilt:Gold or something resembling gold and luxury

Gimmel ring:A ring formed of two or more linked hoops, which fit together in a manner that make them appear as one ring

Girandole:A shape that consists of three pear-shaped stones (or pearls) hanging from a large stone or decorative motif, such as a bow

Girdle:The outer edge or periphery of a fashioned stone, the portion that is usually grasped by the setting or mounting, the dividing line between the crown and pavilion, or the rim or edge of the diamond

Gold:A yellow, metallic element that occurs naturally in pure form and is used especially in jewelry

Gold Washed:A term for a piece that has an extremely thin layer of gold, applied by either dipping or burnishing the metal, but are not plated

Gold-Filled:A term for a piece made up of a base metal, coated in a thick layer of gold (at least 10k and 1/20th of the total weight of the piece) bonded to its surface

Gold-Plated:A term for a piece made up of a base metal, bonded with a thin layer of gold (less than 1/20th of the total weight of the piece)

Golden Jubilee Diamond:A 545.67 carat brown diamond, discovered in 1985, and currently the largest cut and faceted diamond in the world

Grading:Evaluation and results assigned by independent gemologists that allow sellers to assign pricing to diamonds and gemstones, achieved from comparison with master stones

Granulation:The process of decorating a metal surface with tiny grains of metal

Graver Tool:A tool, similar to a chisel, used for engraving metal

Green Gold:Gold which contains a high proportion of silver, causing a greenish hue

Grey Gold:Gold which contains a high proportion of iron

Grill:A removable jewelry piece worn over the teeth, often made of precious metal and set with precious gemstones

Grisaille:A form of enamel, painted in monochromatic colors

Guilloche Enamel:A form of enamel work, achieved by working the metal on an engine-turned lathe to form a pattern, before enameling over the pattern

Gypsy Setting:A setting in which the stone is sunk into the surrounding metal, leaving the top of the stone almost level with the top of the metal surface

H

Half Moon Cut:A gemstone cut that resembles an oval or circle which has been cut in half

Hallmark:A mark stamped on jewelry throughout much of the world to attest to the purity of the metal after assay

Halo:A setting that encircles a center gemstone with diamonds or gemstones

Hammered Finish:A jewelry finish in which the piece is hammered to create many tiny planes, before polishing the result

Hand Engraving:A jewelry technique in which designs are artfully etched into a piece using hand-held tools (scraper, spit stick, scorper, graver) rather than a laser, casting machine, or chemicals

Hardness:The resistance of a substance to being scratched

Head:The portion of a jewelry item that holds the stone

Heart Cut:A diamond cut shaped like a heart, with two rounded obtrusions at the top and a point at the bottom

Heirloom:A jewelry piece that descends one or more generations to an heir or heirs

Hematite:An iron ore consisting of ferric oxide in crystalline form

Hoop:A circular earring design that resembles a ring and passes through the earlobe

Hope Diamond:A 45.52 carat blue diamond, which currently resides in the National Museum of Natural History of the United States

Horn:A substance often used as a substitute for tortoiseshell

I

Ideal²:A square diamond cut with a hearts & arrows pattern

IGI:Acronym for the International Gemological Institute

Igneous:A rock formed by solidification of magma or lava

Imperfection:A general term used to refer to internal or external characteristics of a gemstone (i.e.: inclusion, fracture, etc.)

Inclusion:A visible internal flaws in a gemstone, including: fractures, crystalling abnormalities, and foreign objects

Ingot:A bar or brick, formed by pouring a molten precious metal into a mold

Initials:The first letters of a group of names, often a person's first and last name

Inlaid:Decorated with a material set into a surface

Inlay:A decorative technique, in which part of the surface of a piece of jewelry, furniture, or ceramic is cut away and a stone, mother of pearl, or some other substance is embedded into the hollowed-out area so that it is level with the surface of the piece

Intaglio:A design carved down into a gemstone, often used for seals. Devices which made an impression in wax used to seal a letter or authenticate a document

Interlocking:A wedding set that has multiple pieces which securely lock into place with one another

Intertwined:A pair or group of bands that overlap each other

Invisible Setting:A style in which rows of square princess cut diamonds or other gemstones rest perfectly flush against one another, within a metal border or frame with no metal separating them

Iridescent:A display of lustrous rainbow-like colors

Iridium:A metal and member of the platinum family, which is often alloyed with platinum to improve workability

Irradiation:Treatment performed on gemstones or pearls to enhance color

Ivory:A hard, smooth, yellowish-white substance made from the tusks of elephants and walruses

J

Jabot pin:A jeweled tie pin popular in the 1920s and 1930s

Jade:An opaque, semiprecious gemstone which is usually found in shades of green, but can also be found in lavender and rose shades

Jadeite:A hard, translucent variety of jade which is rarer than the other varieties of nephrite

Jasper:An opaque, impure, Polycrystalline variety of Quartz that may be red, yellow, or brown

Jet:A dense, black variety of lignite (fossilized coal) that can be highly polished and is often made into mourning jewelry, toys, or buttons, or used in inlays

Jewelers of America:A trade association tasked with maintaining ethical standards within the jewelry industry

Jump Ring:A small, oval or round wire ring used to link charms or pendants onto a chain

K

Karat:A unit of fineness for gold, equal to 1 part of pure gold in an alloy

Knife Edge:A ring whose shank forms a point at the middle point of the band, instead of being rounded or flat

Knot:A jewelry design element which includes multiple curved, wavy metal pieces which are loosely interlaced and soldered together

L

Lab Diamond:A diamond that was created through a controlled laboratory process

Lab Gemstone:A gemstone that was created through a controlled laboratory process

Lapidary:A general term which is used for the cutting, shaping, polishing and creation of jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones

Laser Drilling:A technique used to enhance a stone's clarity by introducing bleaching or other enhancing agents

Laser Engraving:A technique which uses a high-powered laser beam to etch a design into the surface of a jewelry piece

Lavaliere:A chain from which an ornament or gemstone hangs in the center

Leakage:The leaving or escaping of light through the facets of fashioned gemstones

Lever Back:An earring back that uses a clasp

Liquid silver:The term given to strands of small silver beads which were made by carefully slicing tubes of Sterling silver into pieces and stringing them together

Living Jewelry:Jewelry materials derived from living organisms

Locket:A hinged case, usually in the shape of an oval or heart, which can be opened or closed and usually contains a photograph or memento

Logan Sapphire:A 422.99 carat rich, deep blue sapphire discovered in Sri Lanka

London Blue Topaz:A popular variation of topaz with a vivid, dark blue-green color

Lost Wax Process or Casting:A casting process where a carved or cast wax original is encased in clay or other investment, before being melted at a high temperature, and replaced with molten metal

Loupe:A small magnifying glass, often held in the eye socket, used for analyzing gemstones

Low-Profile:A ring that has a low-set center stone

Lucite:A clear, span plastic that can be molded and carved

Luster:The appearance of a material's surface, as determined by the quantity and quality of light reflected

Luxury:An extravagant jewelry piece

M

Mabe:A Japanese term for cultured pearls, which are cultured against the shell so that only half a pearl is formed resembling a half-sphere

Maltese Cross:A shape that has four broad arms of equal length, sometimes having a V-shaped notch cut out of the ends

Marcasite:An iron ore material-- or pyrite--that is faceted into rose cuts and set into silver or pewter jewelry

Marquis Cut:A faceted, elongated, oval stone which tapers to a point at both ends

Marquise Cut:A diamond cut that is elongated like an oval, but has a point at either end

Master Stones:A set of diamonds used as a key to grade the color of other diamonds

Matching:A term used to describe a set of jewelry pieces with matching elements such as style or color

Matte:A finish created by using either a chemical process or an abrasive material to scratch the top layer of the piece, creating a dull and non-reflective surface

Melange:A term for mixed diamond sizes, weighing more than 1 carat

Melee:A classification used in the sorting of diamonds weighing less than 1 carat

Memento Mori:A jewel that is a reminder of death

Memorial Jewel:A jewel that is made in memory of a loved one, often containing hair from that person and frequently decorated with enamel

Metamorphic:A rock that has been affected by pressure, heat, and water, resulting in a more compact and highly crystalline condition

Meteorite:A small particles of matter in the solar system, projected towards earth, that reaches the surface without being completely vaporized

Micro Mosaic:A mosaic of very small, colored glass pieces (tesserae) inlaid in glass or hardstone

Micro-Pavé:A set of tiny gemstones set very close together, traditionally in three or more rows

Milanese Chain:A chain consisting of interwoven rows of small links, forming a mesh

Milgrain:Tiny beads of metal used to decorate jewelry, often adding a vintage aesthetic

Millefiori:A method of creating glass or clay beads with intricate patterns using canes

Minaudiere:A woman's small, hard vanity case or handbag, usually metal or wood, which is held in the hand

Mine Cut:An antique diamond cut featuring a cushion or round shape and a chunkier look

Minimalist:A jewelry design which is simple and sparing

Mississippi River Pearls:Irregularly shaped pearls, usually elongated

Mizpah Ring:A broad, gold ring engraved with the word MIZPAH. Mizpah is a Hebrew word that means 'watchtower' and is loosely interpreted as 'May God watch over you'.

Mohs Hardness Scale:A qualitative scale characterizing scratch resistance of various minerals through the ability of harder material to scratch softer material

Moissanite:A silicon carbide SiC found in the Diablo Canyon meteoric iron

Mokumé Gane:A Japanese metalworking procedure which produces a mixed-metal design, resembling wood

Money Clip:A device used to store cash and credit cards in a compact fashion

Montana Sapphire:A blue sapphire, primarily mined in the Yogo Gulch of Montana

Moonstone:A transparent, slightly iridescent, milky white variety of feldspar with white or light blue opalescent spots

Morganite:A rose-colored variety of beryl

Mosaic:A design created by pressing pieces of stone glass or ceramic tiles called tesserae in mortar

Mother-of-pearl:The opalescent material on the inside of mollusk shells like oysters and mussels

Mount:To place or fix a stone in the setting

Mounting:A piece of metal that holds a gem in place

Mourning Jewelry:Jewelry worn to commemorate the death of a loved one, usually in the form of a ring, brooch, or necklace

Moval:A gemstone cut that combines the tapered edges of a marquise cut with rounded points of the oval cut

Multi-Band:A ring that is composed of more than one band

N

Nacre:The shiny, iridescent substance secreted by a mollusk as a response to an irritant (like a piece of sand), which over time builds up to become a pearl

Natural Diamond:A diamond that was formed in the earth in an uncontrolled environment

Navette:A ring shaped like a large marquise but set with many smaller stones

Necklace:An ornament worn around the neck

Negligee:A long necklace that usually terminates in irregular length with tassels or drops

Nickel Silver:A white metal mixture of copper, zinc, and nickel which contains no silver

Niello:An inlay technique in which the grooves made in silver or gold are made black in color by the use of a composition of metal sulfides

O

Oiling:A temporary treatment used to enhance the color of a gemstone

Old Euro Cut:A round antique diamond cut, known for their chunky faceting and small table

Old European Cut:A round antique diamond cut, known for their chunky faceting and small table

Old Mine Cut:An antique diamond cut featuring a cushion or round shape and a chunkier look

Onyx:A semi-precious stone that is black or white in color

Opal:A semi-precious stone known for its iridescent, luminous qualities

Opalescent:A term used to describe a surface with a lustrous, cloudy, rainbow-like array of colors, similar to what one might see in an oil slick or mother of pearl

Opaque:A term used to describe a stone that will not allow any light to pass through it

Open Back Setting:A setting in which the back of the stone can be seen

Oppenheimer Diamond:A 253.7 carat yellow diamond, discovered in South Africa in 1964

Ore:A metal-bearing mineral from which metal can be profitably mined or extracted

Organic:A general term used for jewelry that is made from a living organism (such as pearl), jewelry with floral or plant-like designs, or jewelry that is eco-friendly

Orient:The characteristic sheen of fine natural and cultured pearls

Oriental Pearl:A pearl that has formed naturally, with no human intervention

Oval Cut:A faceted, elongated stone, round at both ends

Oxidation:A chemical process in which metals such as silver are blackened or tarnished as a reaction to sulfur and oxygen

Oxide:A compound containing one oxygen atom per molecule

Oxidize:The act of combining with oxygen molecules to make an oxide

Oxygen:A nonmetallic element that is normally a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas

P

Padparadscha Sapphire:A rare, peach colored variation of sapphire

Paillons:Small pieces of metallic foil which are placed underneath enamel work to provide a glow, popular with a number of arts and crafts movement jewelers

Palladium:A charcoal-gray precious metal; cousin of platinum found in Russia, South Africa, and North America

Pampilles:A cascade of pendant stones, popular in Georgian jewelry and meant to look like rain drops

Parure:A suite of matching jewelry, usually four or more pieces and containing a: necklace, bracelet, pair of earrings and belt or brooch

Passamenterie:Jewelry inspired by furniture trimmings such as cording

Paste:A glass-based substance used to simulate gemstones

Patina:The discoloration that forms on metals such as silver and bronze, but is often planned for in the artist's design and can be introduced artificially through the use of chemicals

Pattern:A general term for repeated, decorative jewelry designs

Pave:A large field of small stones set very close together to create wall-to-wall paved object

Pavilion:The portion of a gemstone located below the girdle

Pear Cut:A gemstone cut with a rounded, oval shape that comes to a point at one end

Pearl:An organic gem grown within oysters and other mollusks which is most valued and sought after when it is are perfectly round and lustrous

Peek-a-boo Diamond:A secretive, hidden diamond that is only visible from a unique angle

Pendaloque:A type of pear or tear drop gemstone, faceted as a brilliant cut and suspended from a smaller stone which is usually separated by a bow or other motif

Pendant:A hanging ornament primarily worn on a necklace

Peridot:A yellow-green, transparent variety of Olivine

Petite:A small, potentially fragile piece of jewelry

Pewter:A term for items described and marked as if they contain at least 90% tin

Pietra Dura:A mosaic of semi-precious stones set into a floral pattern of black marble or onyx, also known as a hardstone mosaic

Pinchbeck:A gold simulant, invented circa 1720 by Christopher Pinchbeck, which is comprised of a mixture of Copper and Zinc

Pique:Tortoiseshell or horn, which is inlaid with mother-of-pearl, silver or gold

Pit:An indentation on the surface of a diamond or gemstone

Planishing:A hammering process done to give a smoother finish to a piece of metal

Platinum:The most precious of white metals

Plique-a-jour:A form of cloisonne in which the enamel in the cells has no backing, producing a translucent effect

Plot:A diagram of a gemstone's clarity characteristics

Point:One-one hundredth (0.01) of a carat

Polished:A smooth, glossy jewelry finish

Pomander:A case for scented objects, worn as a pendant

Popigai Crater:A crater in Siberia, Russia that is home to the world's largest known diamond deposit

Poseidon:The Greek god of the sea

Posy Ring:A ring engraved with a verse

Pot Metal:A general term for alloys which do not have gold, silver, or platinum as a components

Precious Gemstone:A gemstone that is of a very high value or price, due to its rarity

Precious Metal:A general term for metals valued for their color, malleability, and rarity

Princess Cut:A highly faceted square cut stone, similar to a brilliant cut, which has been adapted to a square shape to increase brilliance

Prong Setting:A gemstone held in place by small, finger-like wires, that are attached to the body of the ring, which bend over the edges of the stone

Proportion:A mathematical representation of a gemstone's overall symmetry

Proposal:An offering of marriage

Q

Quartz:The family name for naturally occurring crystals composed of Silica or Silicon Dioxide

R

Radiant Cut:A rectangular gemstone which combines the shape of an emerald cut and the sparkle of a brilliant cut

Rails:Metal edges that line the sides of a melee setting

Refinishing:The restoring of a finish to its initial state

Refraction:The act of changing the direction of a light wave so the light enters the object in one direction and leaves it in another

Regard:A piece of jewelry with multiple stones types whose first letters can all be concatenated to spell out a word

Relief:A kind of raised decoration that protrudes above the surface, similar to a cameo

Repousse:A raised, high relief design on the front of a metal object made by hammering, embossing, or punching the reverse side of the metal to form the design from the back side out

Restoration:A technique in which an aged piece of jewelry is restored to its former appearance and/or durability

Rhinestone:A faceted stone made of glass

Rhodium:A metal that is a member of the platinum family of metals, but is liquid in its raw, natural state, not solid like platinum

Rhodolite:A pink or purple variation of garnet

Ring:A circular band of precious or semi-precious metal worn especially on the finger

Ring Sizes:A measurement used to denote the circumference (or sometimes the diameter) of rings

Riveting:A method of joining two objects together by making hole in each piece, before passing a screw--composed of the same metal as the piece--through the holes to join the parts

Riviere:A choker-style necklace that is a continuous line of gemstones usually of graduated or equal size stones

Rock Crystal:See Quartz

Rolled Gold:An early 19th century type of gold plating

Rondelle:A pierced piece of metal or gemstone strung between the beads in a necklace

Rosary:A string of beads used in counting prayers

Rose Cut:A style of stone cutting that produces a gemstone with a flat, multifaceted base and semi-dome-shaped top that is covered with a varied number of triangular facets and terminates in a point

Rose Finish:A jewelry finish that makes the piece look as if it is made of rose gold, but contains no actual gold content

Rose Gold:An alloy of gold mixed with copper, which gives it red tint

Rose Quartz:A translucent, milky-pink variety of Quartz

Rosser Reeves Ruby:A 138.7 carat ruby, known for its great color and well-defined star pattern

Round Cut:The most common style of cutting for both diamonds and colored stones

Rubellite:A red or pink variation of tourmaline

Ruby:A member of the corundum family whose red color comes from chromium oxide in the stone

Rutilated:A type of quartz with inclusions of rutile

S

Safety Catch:A method of securing a brooch to a garment with a swiveling that locks the tip of the pin stem into the C catch

Salt-and-Pepper Diamond:A diamond with many inclusions which create a black-and-white design

Sand Casting:A casting method in which tempered sand is packed onto wood or metal pattern halves and then removed from the pattern, before metal is poured into the resultant cavities and the mold is broken to remove castings

Sandblasted:A jewelry piece that has been intentionally abraised with many pieces of a small, coarse material to give it a rough, unpolished finish

Sapphire:A member of the corundum family which come in a variety of colors ranging from white to orange to green to pink to blue to purple

Sardonic:A variety of onyx consisting of alternating layers of charred and white chalcedony

Satin finish:A series of tiny parallel lines scratched onto a surface with a wire brush or a polishing tool to produce texture

Sautoir:An extremely long neck chain, which falls below the waistline and terminates with a tassel or pendant.

Scarab:A sacred beetle in ancient Egypt--commonly recognized as a symbol of rebirth and rejuvenation--popular as amulets

Scatter Pin:A small pin usually featuring flowers, birds, and insects that is intended to be worn in a group with many other scatter pins

Scepter:A symbol of spiritual and worldly power used as part of a royal insignia

Screw:An earring back type for non-pierced ears, in which the earring is tightened against the earlobe by means of a screw with a flat round end

Seal:An engraving (intaglio) in stone or metal used to create an impression on a substance such as wax or clay

Sedimentary:A rock that has been formed by or from (often many) deposits of sediment

Seed Bead:Mass produced tiny glass or plastic beads made by slicing tubes into tiny evenly spaced pieces

Seed Pearl:A very small pearl popular during the Victorian period as accents set into gold jewelry or woven into long fringed necklaces

Semi-Precious Gemstone:A stone that is less rare and less expensive than precious stones, but is still valued for its beauty

Semi-Precious Stones:See Semi-Precious Gemstone

Setting:A mechanism by which a stone is held by precious metal into a mounting

Sevigne:A bodice ornament set with gemstones in a bowknot shape

Shagreen:The skin of a ray or shark from the waters around China, usually stained green or another color

Shamrock:A three leaved plant, used as a symbol of Ireland and popular in Celtic jewelry

Shank:The part of a ring that encircles the finger, minus the setting

Shared Prong:A prong setting in which each prong is responsible for holding two gemstones--one on either side

Shield:A piece of defensive armor, often elongated and adorned with designs

Shoulder:The part of a ring between the shank and the center of the setting

Signet:A private seal once impressed into wax to authenticate a document, which was often formed into a finger ring with the seal forming the bezel of the ring

Silver Tone:A term used to describe a jewelry piece that is silver plated or coated, but not sterling silver

Simulated Stones:A general term for natural or synthetic substance which are meant to imitate authentic gemstones but are a cheaper version with a different chemical makeup

Single-cut Diamonds:A genuine diamond, commonly used in watch cases that contain only 1 facet

Slide:A jeweled fastener, which slides onto a chain or fabric ribbon

Smoky Quartz:A variety of quartz that ranges in color from cloudy brown to a dark, root beer shade with a smoky appearance

Smoky Topaz:See Quartz

Snake Chain:A chain that is made up of round, wavy, metal rings joined side by side to form a flexible tube with a smooth, scaly texture like snake skin

Solder:A jewelry production technique which joins two metals, using a melted metal or alloy

Soldering:A technique used in making and repairing jewelry whereby two pieces of metal are joined by applying molten metal, which has a lower melting point than the two metals being joined

Solid Diamond:A ring made of pressurized lab created diamonds

Solitaire:A ring containing a single diamond or gemstone

Sparkle:The act of giving off or reflecting bright, moving points of light

Spinel:A semi-precious gemstone consisting of an oxide of magnesium and aluminum that varies from colorless to ruby red to black

Split Prong:A prong setting, in which each prong is split, with each side being responsible for holding its own gemstone

Split Ring:A small base metal finding, resembling a key-ring

Split Shank:A ring design element which features a band that parts into two as it nears the head

Spring Ring:A very common kind of clasp used for joining two ends of a necklace

Square Band:A band whose shank is not rounded at the edges

Square Cut:A style of gemstone cut, resembling the emerald cut

Stabilized Turquoise:Turquoise that has been treated by various methods to reduce the porosity, thus making it less changeable over time

Stackable Rings:A set of rings--sometimes of contrasting styles--which are intended to be worn on top of each other

Stainless Steel:A steel alloy including chromium and sometimes another element such as nickel or molybdenum

Stamping:A method which uses a punch or die to cut or emboss metal with a mark

Star 129:A round diamond cut with 129 facets

Step Cut:A type of cut in which facets are long and rectangular. Can be found on emerald cut, Asscher cut, and baguette cut diamonds.

Sterling Silver:A silver alloy made up of at least 92.5% pure silver, which is the standard fineness for silver

Stomacher:A very large bodice ornament, usually triangular, filling the area between the neckline and the waistline

Strap Necklace:A mesh chain with pendants suspended by a short, fine chain resembling a fringe

Strapwork:A decorative pattern in the form of interlaced and crossed straight bands resembling straps

Stud:A minimalist earring style that includes a focal point attached to a post, which goes through the earlobe and connects to a removable back that keeps the earring in place

Super Fit Ring:A ring which opens and closes--similar to a bracelet or watch band--allowing it to slide into place before being secured

Swag:A motif used on a piece of jewelry depicting festoons of foliage, fruit and flowers

Symmetry:A term for the uniformity of a gemstone's cut, including the shape and placement of facets

Synthetic Gemstones:A gemstone that was produced in laboratory rather than found in nature

T

Table:The large facet that caps the crown of a faceted gemstone

Table Percentage:The diameter of a gemstone, divided by the size of the table

Table-cut:See step cut

Tahitian Pearl:A pearl formed from a black lip oyster, primarily cultivated around the French Polynesian islands

Tanzanite:A semi-precious gemstone popular for its brilliance and known for its varying shades of violet ranging from deep, rich purple to lilac

Tapered:A piece that becomes gradually smaller toward one end

Tapered Baguette:A small gemstone, cut in a trapezoid shape with one end narrower than the opposite end

Tarnish:A dulled luster or finish caused by a thin deposit of dirt which discolors the surface of metal and is easily removed

Tennis Bracelet:A bracelet made up of individually set gemstones of uniform size and color, linked together like chain, making the bracelet somewhat flexible

Tension Setting:A jewelry setting that holds the gemstone in place by pressure rather than prongs, a bezel, or other mounting

Terminal:The decorated ends of a necklace or bangle usually containing stylized heads of a ram, lion, dragon, etc.

Textured:A surface that is not smooth

Three Stone:A popular ring design that showcases three stones in a row, along the head of the ring

Tiara:A head ornament worn in the crown position

Tin:A malleable, silvery, metallic element which is not easily oxidized in the air and so is used chiefly to coat iron to protect it from rusting

Titanium:A silvery-gray, lightweight, strong, metallic element with atomic number 22 which is obtained from Ilmenite and Rutile

Toggle clasp:A means of fastening two ends of a chain together, consisting of a ring on one end and a short bar on the other

Tolkowsky, Marcel:A mathematician who defined the proportions necessary for maximum brilliance from a round diamond brilliant cut

Topaz:A borosilicate of aluminum that occurs in rhomboidal crystals and is used as a gemstone

Torsade:A twisted strands of pearls, ending in a clasp

Tortoise Shell:A mottled, nutty brown shell material with a spotted, striped, or sometimes even speckled pattern

Tourmaline:A semi-precious gemstone that can take on multiple colors and consists of a complex borosilicate

Tracer Band:A wedding or anniversary band that is contoured in such a way as to fit flush against the engagement ring

Translucent:Partially transparent

Trapezoid Cut:A gemstone cut into a four-sided shape with a short side, a parallel long side, and two equal ends

Trellis:A prong setting in which four prongs are interwoven together to hold the center diamond

Tremblant:A general term for jewelry with a trembling effect when the wearer moves, which is produced by elements set upon stiff wires that move

Trillion Cut:A triangular shaped diamond cut, with abbreviated corners and typically varying facets

Tsavorite:A rich, deep green variation of garnet

Tubogas:A flexible, tubular chain

Tungsten:A gray-white, heavy, high-melting, hard polyvalent metallic element that resembles chromium and molybdenum

Turquoise:A semi-precious stone, known for its true robin's egg blue

Tutti Frutti:A general term for jewelry set with multi-colored gems carved in shapes of leaves, flowers and berries and often in a basket design

Twisted:A band or group of bands that are curved and/or have been interwoven together

Two-Tone:A jewelry piece that includes two separate metals, which remain separate and are soldered together to form one piece

U

Ultrasonic:A cleaning device for jewelry that removes dirt through the use of ultrasonic waves

Unique:A jewelry item that is distinguishable from all others of its class or type

Unisex:A general term for jewelry that can be worn by all sexes

V

Vermeil:Silver with gold plating

Victorian:The designation given to the period from approximately 1837 when Victoria became Queen of England until 1901, when she died

Vintage:An old, recognized and enduring piece of jewelry which remains valued due to its interest, importance or quality

W

Wedding:A marriage ceremony

Wedding Set:A collection containing both the engagement ring and the wedding band

White Gold:An alloy made of gold mixed with nickel sometimes also containing palladium or zinc

White Metal:Any combination of alloys of non-precious metals such as lead and tin

Wood:A hard, fibrous substance that makes up the structure of trees and shrubs

Woven:A jewelry design element in which multiple strands of an often precious metal are interlaced together

Wrist Watch:A small watch, attached to a bracelet and worn around the wrist

Y

Yellow Gold:A gold that is yellow--as in its pure form--often alloyed with copper and silver

Z

Zinc:An abundant, lustrous, bluish-white metallic element of the Magnesium-Cadmium group

Zircon:A common mineral occurring in small crystals which is heated, cut, and polished to form a brilliant blue-white gemstone

Zoisite:A semi-precious gemstone which takes on a variety of colors including blue, violet, green, brown, pink, yellow, gray, and white